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For those who travel for the pleasure of the journey,
those who believe that getting there is as much fun as being there, Russia's
Trans-Siberian Railway has long been an almost mythic experience. It is
the longest continuous rail line on earth, each run clattering along in
an epic journey of almost six thousand miles (or about ten thousand kilometers)
over one third of the globe. For most of its history, the Trans-Siberian
journey has been an experience of almost continuous movement, seven days
or more of unabated train travel through the vast expanse of Russia. A great
part of the pleasure of such a trip is simply sitting back and watching
the land go by. However, most travelers on the Trans-Siberian find that
interaction with other passengers, both Russians and tourists, is what makes
the trip an unforgettable experience. Today, with far fewer travel restrictions,
it is possible to use the rail journey as the core of a more varied tour.
Travelers can enjoy stopovers in many of the Russian
cities and towns along the route, from the historic Volga port of Yaroslavl
to Irkutsk and the scenic Lake Baikal region.
Routes and Western Extensions
Travel along the Trans-Siberian
Railway is usually undertaken from west to east, though it is quite possible
to go in the opposite direction. Moreover, a number of choices of route
are available, as are extensions of the journey on either end.
The usual route taken by travellers is the
Trans-Siberian line, which runs from Moscow to Vladivostok, passing through
Yaroslavl on the Volga, Exaterinburg in the Urals, Irkutsk near Lake Baikal's
southern extremity, and then Khabarovsk. From Vladivostok it is possible
to continue by ferry to Niigata on the west coast of Japan.
A second primary route is the Trans-Manchurian
line, which coincides with the Trans-Siberian as far as Tarskaya, a few
hundred miles east of Baikal. From Tarskaya the Trans-Manchurian heads
southeast into China and makes its way down to Beijing.
The third primary route is the Trans-Mongolian
line, which coincides with the Trans-Siberian as far as the Buddhist enclave
of Ulan Ude on Baikal's eastern shore. From Ulan-Ude the Trans- Mongolian
heads south to Ulaan-Baatar before making its way southeast to Beijing.
In 1984, a fourth route running further to
the north was finally completed, after more than five decades of sporadic
work. Known as the Baikal Amur Mainline, this recent extension departs
from the Trans-Siberian line several hundred miles west of Lake Baikal
and passes the lake at its northernmost extremity. It reaches the Pacific
to the northeast of Khabarovsk, at Imperatorskaya Gavan. While this route
provides access to Baikal's stunning northern coast, it also passes through
some pretty forbidding terrain.
To the west, connections are available through
Moscow to Berlin (and from there to Paris), to Budapest, and to St. Petersburg
(and from there to Helsinki).
History of the Railway
Russia's longstanding desire for a Pacific
port was realized with the foundation of Vladivostok in 1860. By 1880,
Vladivostok had grown into a major port city, and the lack of adequate
transportation links between European Russia and its Far Eastern provinces
soon became an obvious problem. In 1891, Czar Alexander III drew up plans
for the Trans-Siberian Railway and initiated its construction. Upon his
death three years later, the work was continued by his son Nicholas. Despite
the enormity of the project, a continuous route was completed in 1905,
having been rushed to completion by the outbreak of the Russo-Japanese
War the year before. The present route of the line, including both the
difficult stretch around Baikal and a northerly replacement for the dangerously
situated Manchurian line, was opened in 1916.
Cities and Towns Along the Way
The Trans-Siberian
trains stop several times a day, for periods ranging from just a few moments
to almost half an hour. Even the longest stops, however, allow for little
more than a quick expedition from the station to make some necessary purchases.
It is possible, however, to arrange a stopover in many of the major destinations
along the route, and what follows is a brief listing of some of the most
popular sites.
Yaroslavl
One of Russia's oldest cities, Yaroslavl was
founded by Yaroslav the Wise of Kievan Rus' in 1010. Over the next several
centuries the city prospered as a trading port on the Volga and a center
of textile manufacture, becoming by the 17th century the second largest
city in Russia behind Moscow. Its wealthy merchant community became notable
patrons of the arts, building hundreds of churches. Fortunately, the great
majority of these remain intact today, making the city one of the most
beautiful destinations along the railway.
Ekaterinburg
The Trans-Siberian's first major stop in Asian
Russia is the major industrial city and transport hub of Ekaterinburg.
The town was founded in 1721 by Catherine the Great as a fort and metallurgical
factory, its position having been chosen for its strategic proximity to
the great mining operations of the Urals and Siberia. Although there are
few tourist sites here other than the 18th-century cathedral, the city
is nonetheless of great historical interest. It was here, in a house that
once stood on Liebknecht ulitsa, that Tsar Nicholas II and his family
were executed on the morning of July 17, 1918. Although the house no longer
exists, its site is marked by a plain wooden cross. The Imperial family,
like most tourists, was brought to Ekaterinburg on the Trans- Siberian.
Ekaterinburg is also notable for being the hometown of Boris Yeltsin.
Krasnoyarsk
One of the older towns in Siberia, Krasnoyarsk
was founded in 1628 as a trading post along the Yenisei River. It grew
rapidly when gold was discovered in the region, and eventually became
a major river port and industrial center. Outside the ciy is the Stolby
Reserve, an attractive preserve notable for the odd, columnar cliffs that
rise from the river's edge inside its area. After one passes over the
Yenesei, another of the Trans-Siberian's most significant border crossings
takes place--one leaves the steppe and plunges into the taiga, the great
forest that extends over most of Russia. The vast Siberian taiga is the
largest remaining forest in the world.
Irkutsk
Irkutsk became a wealthy trading center soon
after its founding in the 1660s, benefiting from its position along overland
trade routes between China and Western Russia. Since then it has maintained
its position as the regions most important city, though today its attraction
for visitors is supplemented by its proximity to Lake Baikal. Trans Siberian
Railway enthusiasts should try to make it for a visit in 1998, when the
city has planned a celebration commemorating the inauguration of the rail
line.
Ulan Ude
Like most Siberian cities, Ulan Ude was founded
during the 17th century. However, as the center of the Buddhist Buryat
culture, it is unlike any of the other stops along the Trans-Siberian
railway. Although the city's Buddhist tradition, like all other religions,
suffered a sharp decline under Stalin, there has been a noticeable revival
in recent years. Visitors to Ulan Ude today should not miss the opportunity
to visit nearby Ivolginsk Datsan, a restored Tibetan Buddhist monastery
which now serves as the center of Buddhism in Russia.
Khabarovsk
Strategically located on the hills overlooking
the Amur River, Khabarovsk was founded as a military outpost in 1651,
during the first wave of Russian colonization. The town gained importance
during the nineteenth century as a trading outpost, and today it is one
of the most important and promising cities of the Russian Far East. Khabarovsk
is a pleasant city, with wide, tree-lined boulevards, a popular beach,
and an interesting museum of ethnography and local history.
Vladivostok
Vladivostok was founded in 1860 as a military
outpost, but its outstanding natural harbour soon brought it prosperity
as a trading port. The city's nomination as the headquarters of the Russian
Pacific fleet in the 1870s brought further growth, and by the twentieth
century it had become a major center of international trade. During the
Soviet era, Vladivostok's military role eclipsed its trading function,
and the city was closed both to foreigners and to Soviet citizens lacking
special entry permission. The city was opened once again to visitors in
1992. It is currently experiencing a rapid recovery of its historic role
as a major Pacific commercial port and has also maintained its naval importance
as the headquarters of the Russian Pacific Fleet. Today Vladivostok is
a a lively, attractive city, with a wealth of attractions and, as always,
a strikingly impressive harbour.
Copyright (c) 2000 Dm.Core
Ltd.. All rights reserved.
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